Pedal, curse, enjoy
Photo: D.CARLIER / davidcarlierphotography.com
Photo: Swiss with a pulse
The outdoor region of Villars–Gryon–Diablerets–Bex in Vaud likely isn’t top of mind for many German-speaking Swiss when it comes to vacation planning. And that’s a shame. Because a visit quickly reveals: this is prime biking territory – even if it can be a bit of a challenge.
The two calves sniff curiously at the vehicle lying in the meadow near Lac de Bretaye above Villars-sur-Ollon in the canton of Vaud. This interesting object for the young animals is a mountain bike. It’s my vehicle for the next few hours. I’m on a bike tour in the Villars-Gryon-Les Diablerets-Bex area. The route leads from Lac de Bretaye over the Col de la Croix pass and the hamlet of Taveyanne to Villars-sur-Ollon. It is therefore part of the 150 kilometers of bike trails in the region.
Strict but beautiful
I’m still in high spirits and just as carefree as the two calves. The path first leads downhill to the picturesque Lac des Chavonnes. However, it doesn’t take long for the euphoria to fade. After all, if you go downhill, you usually have to go uphill again on a bike tour. This is the case a short time later, when the first long climb lies ahead of me. I pedal on and am sweating profusely after just a few minutes. Whether it’s because of the extra kilos from working from home or the almost 30 degrees is irrelevant. Just a few days before this tour, I was still riding an e-mountain bike, which made things a lot easier.
The good thing about a ride on a conventional bike is that there is plenty of time to enjoy the surroundings between pedalling, swearing and sweating. There are, for example, the flower-strewn meadows, the view of the imposing Diablerets massif or Lac des Chavonnes, lovely chalets and, time and again, cows. During the drinking stops (of which there are several), the ringing of the bells and the chirping of the crickets have a calming effect. Just the right thing for such a rollercoaster of emotions.
Photo: Les Diablerets
Feelings of happiness and a confession
Over lunch at Les Mazots, just below the Col de la Croix pass – proteins, carbs, vitamins, and naturally, dessert – I find myself reflecting on the last few kilometres. I don’t dare look up at the pass road looming ahead; another long climb is still waiting for me. Instead, I fix my gaze on the gypsum pyramids across from the sun terrace – fascinating rock formations sculpted by wind and water, a striking geological feature of the area.
Then comes the final challenge. Somehow, I push through. A swift descent follows, down towards Taveyanne – a picture-perfect hamlet that, from a distance, looks as if someone had carefully planted chalets in tidy rows across a green canvas.
Back in Villars-sur-Ollon, I return my bike to the rental station, exhausted but content – and with legs that feel a little wobbly, I make a beeline for the shower.
And finally, a confession: I was riding with a group of e-bikers. From time to time, they took pity on me, letting me catch a tow on the steepest stretches of the 27-kilometre route. Without their help, I’d probably still be somewhere on the mountain – and this article would’ve missed its deadline.
Further information
Good to know
Whether it’s fast downhill trails, technically demanding sections, family-friendly cycle paths or winding mountain roads – the area around Villars, Gryon, Les Diablerets and Bex offers 150 kilometres of bike routes for all skill levels.
Mountain bikes and e-bikes can easily be transported on the Roc d’Orsay (Villars), Les Chaux (Gryon) and Diablerets Express gondolas, as well as on the Villars–Bretaye train. This service is free with the Free Access Card – which, in turn, is free for guests staying at one of the tourist office’s partner accommodations in Villars, Gryon or Les Diablerets. www.villars-diablerets.ch
Hole in the hole at 1,660 meters above sea level
If you take the train from Villars-sur-Ollon up to Bretaye, you’ll pass the Villars golf course – perched at 1,660 metres above sea level. This 18-hole course (par 70) stretches over 5,288 metres and is open to anyone with a golf licence or green card.
What makes this course so special? It’s not just the altitude – it’s the view. Framed by the dramatic peaks of the Dents du Midi and the Muverans massif, the scenery is so spectacular it’s almost a distraction. Out here, hitting the ball cleanly takes more focus than usual – not because of the terrain, but because your eyes keep wandering to the horizon.
