Water sports in the Upper Engadin at an altitude of 1,800 metres? Absolutely—thanks to the Maloja wind that sweeps across Lake Silvaplana. That alone is reason enough to try it for yourself with a course in the latest trending discipline: wingsurfing.

Waves crash into my face, and time and again I involuntarily gulp down cold lake water. The spray blurs my vision, but I can still make out the outlines of mountains—some of them still snow-capped, even now, in early July. The scene feels oddly out of sync with my current predicament. I’m lying flat on a surfboard, paddling frantically with both arms, fighting the strengthening wind to make it out onto Lake Silvaplana. It’s the first day of my wingsurfing course in Silvaplana.

Engadin, not Hawaii

Wingsurfing—a blend of windsurfing and kitesurfing—is said to be the latest craze among water sports fans. The twist? Unlike in windsurfing, the sail (or wing) isn’t attached to the board. You become the mast. Wingfoiling takes it even further: with the help of a specially designed board, you can lift yourself out of the water and glide above it. This is thanks to a curved hydrofoil beneath the board that creates lift by generating suction in the water.

But hold on—action-packed water sports in the Upper Engadin, at more than 1,800 metres above sea level, surrounded by stone pine forests and towering alpine peaks? Isn’t that something you’d expect in coastal spots like Tenerife, the European mecca of surfing—or even further afield, in Hawaii? Think again: Lake Silvaplana is an absolute haven for water sports enthusiasts. The secret lies in the Maloja wind, a valley wind that extends from Bergell and is amplified by the upward flow of air in the Upper Engadin. It kicks in with near clockwork precision around midday in the summer and autumn months, gradually building in strength. Blowing in from the Maloja Pass, it can reach speeds of up to 50 kilometres per hour.

Cold, wet, frustrating

The idea of soaring across Lake Silvaplana, powered by the Maloja wind, is undeniably alluring. But before I can even begin to entertain such dreams, there’s theory to absorb and practice runs to survive. Ben Beholz, my wingfoil instructor from Windsurfing Silvaplana, is tasked with getting me up to speed—or at least giving me a fighting chance—in just a few hours. One of the biggest hurdles is the start. From the water, I kneel on the board and lift the inflatable wing over my head with both hands. Then it all has to happen fast: bend the front leg, rise up fully, and ride. On land, it all looks surprisingly manageable. I feel ready.

So I paddle as far out onto the lake as I can, hoping the wind won’t just shove me straight back to shore. I silently curse every missed workout in the past few months. „With wingsurfing, you can cancel your gym membership,“ Beholz calls out to me. Moments later, I’m underwater again. I come up, searching for my board and wing. After what feels like the twentieth attempt at taking off, disillusionment sets in. Balancing on the wobbly board, positioning the wing correctly, wrestling with the Maloja wind and managing to stand in one smooth motion—this is proving far trickier than I’d imagined. At least my wetsuit shields me from the icy lake, which rarely rises above 15 degrees, even in high summer.

When something clicks

The countless wipeouts won’t let me rest, so on day two of the course, I hit the water before the official lesson even begins, practising how to stand without the wing. Apparently, it pays off. Because suddenly—something changes. After yesterday’s struggles, I wouldn’t have believed it possible, but here I am: upright on the board, wing turned into the wind, catching propulsion. A rush of joy surges through me. I glide effortlessly across Lake Silvaplana, soaking in the moment. A little later, I plunge into the water again—but this time, I hear laughter instead of frustrated curses. I scramble back on the board and ride the next few metres. Something has clicked.

And honestly? Falling off the board isn’t all that bad. Every time you get back up, you’re rewarded with the breathtaking mountain panorama of the Engadin. That alone explains why Silvaplana has become such a special, sought-after destination for water sports lovers from all over the world.