This travelogue highlights the allure of this land of longing from various perspectives: beginning with the European-influenced town of Swakopmund on the western Atlantic coast, and traveling up to the Skeleton Coast in the north, near the border with Angola. Immersing ourselves in the traditions of peoples like the Damaras and Himbas was an extraordinary experience – as were the flights over the primordial landscapes. We indulged in culinary delights combined with sustainability at award-winning lodges, with a little African golf in between.

On the way to Swakopmund

Namibia is thriving! That was our first impression upon arriving in Windhoek. The economy is booming, driven by democratic governance, and all tourist services are running smoothly. This includes the Namibia2Go car rental service, which was ready and waiting for us at the airport. Our destination: the Pearls Beach Pods Hotel from the Gondwana Collection – located right by the sea in Swakopmund. There’s no better place to stay here: a modern and stylish two-story building, fully equipped with all the amenities, even a stocked fridge. We realized we were right on the Atlantic when we heard the crashing waves, smelled the salty fishy air, and felt the brisk wind blowing on the terraces.

Swakopmund is one of the most popular seaside and vacation resorts, offering a distinct German southwest flair. Founded in 1892 during the German colonial period, it still features many Wilhelmine-style buildings with Art Nouveau elements, like the train station, lighthouse, and Hohenzollernhaus. As you stroll through the city center, you’ll notice modern villa districts like Kramersdorf and Vineta, built for the white middle class, blending with these architectural gems from the colonial era.

An hour-and-a-half trip to Walvis Bay was not just for the impressive dune landscape but also for two vastly different golf courses. The Walvis Bay Golf Course, located in the town of the same name, is a 9-hole sand course that has hosted golfers since 1917. Grass is limited to the 18 tee boxes and nine greens, while the fairways are just hardened sand – a breeze for golfers accustomed to waste bunkers. However, this perception might change after spending time with the locals at the clubhouse’s lively bar!

On the way back from Walvis Bay, we visited the Rössmund Golf Course, a well-maintained 18-hole course where springboks occasionally join the players on the green. From the beautifully designed clubhouse on the hill, it’s a delightful scene to watch.

Back in Swakopmund, we ended our west coast trip with a stunning sunset on the pier and a delicious meal at „The Tug“, a former fishing boat that now stands as one of the finest restaurants in town.

In the land that God created in wrath

This is what the „San“ tribe originally called the Skeleton Coast, which stretches 250 kilometers along the Atlantic coast and is also part of the Namib Desert, where the sand merges with the sea. To the observer, the coast appears empty and somewhat eerie. Many ships have been wrecked here, and the beaches are strewn with their remains – a result of the treacherous conditions caused by strong winds, powerful currents, and dense fog. This coast is considered one of the most dangerous places for shipping.

Our drive from Swakopmund to the national park took about an hour and a half, ending at the museum, where you can see various finds from stranded ships, skeletons of whales and other sea creatures, as well as all kinds of precious stones. The coast is also home to massive colonies of Cape fur seals – up to 100,000 of them, naturally producing a strong stench. Surprisingly, despite the barren conditions, there is life here – desert lions, black-backed jackals, hyenas, rhinos, zebras, and giraffes. These animals have adapted remarkably to the harsh desert environment.

The weather here seemed to align with the rough seas: it was cold and stormy, and we were relieved to return to Windhoek.

With Wilderness Air to Damaraland

It couldn’t be more convenient: a young female pilot flew us from Windhoek Airport, where there is a separate „Wilderness Lounge“, to Doro Nawas Airstrip, from where we were picked up by safari car. Wilderness Damaraland Camp truly is „in the middle of nowhere“ – with barren plains, valleys, and a stunning ochre-purple mountain backdrop. The Huab River Valley makes the camp an ideal base for game drives. In addition to the main tent with a lounge, restaurant, and pool, there are 10 other tents, some perched on hills, others nestled between the mountains. Each tent comes with a living room, bedroom, bathroom, and terrace.

The highlight here is the rhino drive: a game drive through rocky terrain where you can still find small, self-sufficient villages. Unfortunately, we didn’t spot any rhinos, but the next day, we were lucky to see elephants gathering at the waterhole at seven o’clock. Our best experience was dinner in the boma – candlelit tables draped in white, delicious food, and fine wine. You certainly wouldn’t expect such elegance in such a desolate area.

The ruins of Twyfelfontein

We had to get up early for this excursion, as we had almost a two-hour drive ahead of us. But it was going to be worth it, as we were headed to a World Heritage Site in the Damaras mountain region. The valley, which the San called the „jumping spring“, was declared a national monument in 1952 and became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2007. The rock paintings and engravings, over 4000 years old, are particularly impressive – more than 2500 in total. A guided hike leads you through rocks and ruins, revealing hunting scenes and depictions of elephants, rhinos, and giraffes.

The excursion continued with a visit to the Damara Living Museum, where we were welcomed by locals singing and dancing. They speak with clicking sounds, wear goatskin, and adorn themselves with handmade jewelry. They explain medicinal herbs from their gardens, and handmade jewelry and art are available in the store.

Over the mountains of the Namib Desert to Serra Cafema Camp

The flight with Wilderness Air to the next airstrip gave us a first glimpse of the vast dunes of the Namib Desert. After more than an hour of flying over sand dunes and rocky ridges, we arrived at „Serra Cafema“, one of the most remote camps in southern Africa – nestled between the Namib Desert and the Kuene River, right on the border with Angola. The eight luxurious tents are situated directly by the river, where animals gather in the evenings, easily observable from the elevated terrace.

Highlights of our stay included a boat trip on the Kuene River, a quad bike tour through the desert, and an excursion into the mountains topped off with a sundowner picnic. A particularly memorable experience was visiting the Himba people – a semi-nomadic tribe who continue to preserve their traditional way of life.