Juist and Norderney, two of the eight East Frisian islands in the North Sea, could not be more different. Although only a few kilometers apart, you can experience two different worlds here. While both islands are characterized by the Wadden Sea World Heritage Site – and nature is absolutely in the foreground on both islands – there are still huge differences.

N o cars, only horse-drawn carts and bicycles on Juist, creating a true slow-living feeling. Limited car traffic in the town of Norderney, and at night in the pedestrian zone, you might find something akin to Ballermann light. Juist has 1,500 islanders, compared to around 6,000 inhabitants on Norderney. In the high season, both islands welcome around six times more guests than inhabitants.

What they also have in common is that the rhythm of life on both islands is determined by the ebb and flow of the tide, and finding a vacant room in high season is nearly impossible. Since 2009, the Wadden Sea around the East Frisian Islands has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site, one of the largest ecosystems of its kind on earth. It’s the largest contiguous sand and mudflat system in the world. This landscape, shaped by constant tidal changes, has been protected as the Lower Saxony Wadden Sea National Park since 1986 and offers a truly pristine habitat.

Walking out at low tide, barefoot or in rubber boots, accompanied by a mudflat guide (going alone would be far too dangerous!), observing and marveling is an unforgettable experience. It’s an adventure for all the senses: tasting the salty air, feeling the mud between your toes, and breathing in the unique scent of the sea.

More than 10,000 different protozoa, fungi, animal, and plant species live in this transitional world between land and sea. As Juist’s marketing man once said: „We are part of nature and the island of deceleration.“ The Wadden Sea proves it.

Hiking and nature paradise Juist

After a delicious, hearty breakfast at Danzer’s Hotel Achterdiek, you are faced with the first difficult decision: will my hike or bike tour today go to the left or to the right? The small village of Juist on the island of the same name lies almost exactly in the middle of the narrow island, which is only around 500 meters wide but 17 km long and has an equally long white sandy beach. Turn left towards the west, right towards the east.

If you head east, you will first come to the Otto Leege path. Just a few hundred meters outside the village, this path, created by a former teacher, leads through the middle of the dunes. It is well maintained so that it is not abandoned and the wildlife is not disturbed. In addition to the fascinating views from a viewing platform, there are also a few surprises in store for walkers. For example, a singing bowl or a wind harp that emits delicate sounds when the wind blows. And you cross the 7th degree of longitude here.

The eastern end of the island is the Kalfamer Juist, the youngest area on the island and an important bird resting and nesting area. During the breeding season, the area may only be entered on a guided tour, otherwise only on the designated paths. A circular walk is only recommended at low tide in order to maintain the necessary distance from the bird colonies.

If you prefer to walk towards the sunset, you will inevitably pass the Domäne Bill. According to our host Stefan Danzer, the owner of Achterdiek, this is one of the island’s hotspots. The bike tour there is one of the island’s classics. And the raisin stuten – a yeast pastry – in the Domäne is a must. After a six-kilometre ride, possibly into a headwind, you’ve probably earned this refreshment. But you won’t be alone. Either way, you are rarely alone.

Nothing works without a ferry

The tide determines the rhythm of life on both islands. Even more so on Juist than on Norderney, because the shipping channel is far less developed here. For this reason, the ferry can normally only land on Juist once a day, whereas it departs for Norderney up to 13 times in summer. There are also additional water cabs that cover the respective route with only a few passengers.

Nevertheless, the journey to Norderney must also be well planned. There is also a small airport on both islands for those in a hurry.

The crier of Norderney

You heard right: he still exists, the town crier of Norderney. These days, his job is no longer to read out the latest news from the town, but rather to greet special guests or announce birthdays and wedding anniversaries. „Today I welcome the guests who have traveled the furthest: Brigitte and Hannes Huggel from Switzerland.“ Bernd Krüger’s deep bass voice rang out across the square on Poststrasse, framed by the tinkling of bells.

Bernd is also a kind of wandering tourist guide and knows all kinds of stories about the island. „Do you know why the people of Norderney always have a plastic bag on their bike?“ This is his favorite story: „A fishing boat might land and then you have to be ready to get fresh fish.“

A hidden gem

Inconspicuous, somewhat hidden next to the magnificent Conversationshaus, we discover a historic building, a real gem, thanks to Norderney marketing woman Marnie Otzipka: the Kurtheater, built in 1893 in the style of a 19th century court theater. No wonder, as visitors who enter it for the first time have their mouths and eyes wide open – they can’t help but be amazed. Up to 500 events take place in the Kurhaussaal every year, from movies for young and old to concerts.

The house is a great contrast to many other buildings, especially those from the 1960s, which unfortunately dominate the picture on the beach. The „bade norderney“, which has already been named „Best Public Bath in Europe“ and is known for its thalassotherapy treatments, is also one of the venerable buildings. It is these abrupt changes in style that characterize the town. Here a narrow alley with dozens of stores and (fish) sandwich stalls, there a wonderfully spacious park and on the beach promenade numerous restaurants with a wide variety of offers.

Would you have guessed that the „Giftbude Norderney“ is a really good Italian restaurant that also serves excellent local fish dishes? The long-established butcher Finn Deckena, who is the third generation to run the business in the middle of the town and the only remaining butcher, also has a lot to tell. He himself is a butcher by conviction and never wanted to be anything else. His grandfather founded the business sixty years ago, his parents expanded it and now the handover to the next generation is just around the corner.

Deckena is plagued by the same concerns that we are familiar with in Switzerland. „I would like to train people again and introduce them to our beautiful profession. But no one is coming forward who wants to become a butcher with heart and soul.“ That’s why he has a production facility on the outskirts of the city, where he makes delicatessen products that are sold fresh in the store and at the counter.

The eternal battle with the sea

When the storm surges hit in the fall, it can quickly become uncomfortable. Although the really big storm surges happened a few years ago, the battle with the sea is omnipresent. The sea sometimes brings sand and sometimes takes sand. This battle is also visible on a trip to the seal banks. Incidentally, Juist calls itself „the most beautiful sandbank in the world“. Not at all inappropriate.

The sandbanks near the two islands are also a popular place for seals and, more recently, for grey seals. An excursion by coastal boat is definitely worthwhile. As you get closer to the animals, you will hear dozens of astonished, cheerful „ahww“ or „cute“ from the passengers. In fact, the cute seals are not disturbed by the approaching ship and even seem quite trusting.

Seals are like apples and fruit. The seal is the generic term, the harbor seal one of several species. They feed almost exclusively on fish, preferably smaller fish – preferably by the kilo. It can be considered a success of the Wadden Sea National Park that, in addition to the harbor seal, the grey seal has also been reintroduced. They were thought to be almost extinct in the Wadden Sea.

Complicated, but eco

For the journey from Switzerland to Norddeich Mole – the ferry port – the night train is not quite ideal. However, the Seazen team has proven that it is feasible. SBB recommends taking the Nightjet to Hamburg as far as Bremen and then changing to the Deutsche Bahn regional train. However, this only runs every two hours, so the connection to the ferry, which only crosses to Juist once a day, is not always ideal. But there is also the Töwerland-Express – smaller boats that carry around 10 passengers. And the ferry to Norderney runs much more frequently.

The return journey may require a longer stay in Bremen, but bridging the gap in this city (see Seazen Golf Edition 2022) is easy and a great way to extend your vacation. With SBB, the night train can be booked up to six months in advance. And after all, we saved around 290 kilograms of CO₂.