F or some, it is the very special light and the colors of the Côte d’Azur. Somehow, the sea seems bluer here and the sunset more romantic. Others like the laissez-faire attitude of the southern French Mediterranean coast. People take time for themselves and for pleasure. Let the clocks run slower.
This is easy with the cuisine, which originated in the rugged world of fishermen and farmers and nowadays enchants the international jet set at a high level. The enthusiasm for the dishes of the Côte d’Azur is so great that the local cuisine has even had UNESCO cultural heritage status since 2012. And among all the delicacies and treats, one specialty is the undisputed star. A cult dish that is synonymous with the south of France like no other meal in the region: die Bouillabaisse.
No other dish combines the traditions of fishermen and the preferences of international connoisseurs more than the queen of fish soups. Once a poor man’s meal for which fish scraps and crustacean shells were boiled in salt water, it is now served in two courses in chic restaurants. First the soup, then the fish and seafood separately. It is served with bread and rouille, a creamy, spicy garlic sauce.
They are aware of their responsibility, both to history and to tourists. This is why the Bouillabaisse Charter was created in 1980, which stipulates which fish, which vegetables, and which herbs may be used when and how. The fact that the laid-back South of France sometimes lists the same fish twice under its Provençal and French names in order to feign more complexity is part of the game and should not be overestimated. Everyone agrees that gurnard belongs in any case, as do scorpionfish and St. Peter’s fish, as well as tomato, onion, celery, and bay leaf.
When it comes to the question of pastis or vermouth, however, opinions differ. When in doubt, use both. A good bouillabaisse needs to cook for a long time, hence its name, which comes from bouillir à baisse – to cook over a low heat. The first verse of Fernandel’s song „La Bouillabaisse“, published in 1953, reads: „Pour faire une bonne bouillabaisse, il faut se lever de bon matin“ („you have to get up early for a good bouillabaisse“).
From a sommelier’s point of view, this coveted dish is both a curse and a blessing. Its variety of flavors and deep spiciness make it difficult to find the right wine. But this is precisely where the opportunity for creativity lies. And who says that a dish served in two courses can only be accompanied by one wine?
In addition to the purely gustatory aspect, wine can also play another role here. Marseille is not only the hometown of bouillabaisse, but also the oldest wine-growing city in France. It was the Phocaeans who brought the first vines with them from the eastern Mediterranean and thus in 600 BC – the start of viticulture in France. A nice Rosé de Provence would therefore be a historically equal sparring partner for our fish stew.
But the wine shouldn’t be too cheesy and should be on the fresher side. The #LOU Rosé from the Commanderie de Peyrassol would be a wonderful prelude to an evening of bouillabaisse. Subtle berry notes and fresh citrus fruit accompanied by a herbaceous spiciness reminiscent of the fields of Provence. Just powerful enough to harmonize with the soup’s more unusual aromas such as garlic, saffron, and bay leaf.
And it’s best to buy a bottle from the winery itself. In addition to viticulture and a restaurant, the winery, which was founded by Knights Templar in the 13th century, also boasts an impressive art collection from its current owner, Philippe Austruy.
We also stay in the Marseille area for the second bottle of the evening, but drive past Avignon to the world-famous wine village of Châteauneuf-du-Pape. Named after the summer residence of Pope John XXII, this wine region of just over 3,000 hectares has built up an international following in the red wine scene. Some of the most expensive wines in France come from here.
However, we are on a different mission today. We are looking for a bottle of the rare white Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc to accompany the second course of the bouillabaisse. For example, from the biodynamic Mas de Boislauzon vineyard run by siblings Christine and Daniel Chaussy. This rare wine is made from the Roussanne and Grenache Blanc grape varieties and, at 14% alcohol, is certainly no lightweight.
Shining out of the glass in a dark golden yellow, it reveals dense notes of ripe peach, citrus fruit oil, and nectar-soaked flowers. This is a white wine that could not be more potent and powerful when paired with a rich portion of fish and rouille.
