LUGANO
Picturesque contrasts
Welcome to Lugano, a city of contrasts! The picturesque region fascinates with its mixture of Mediterranean flair and Alpine charm. The breathtaking location on Lake Lugano, surrounded by steep mountain peaks, presents a unique backdrop for unforgettable experiences.
We encounter modern architecture and historic buildings, urban luxury living, and idyllic nature, art, and culture. Here we extend the summer and experience a lively, yet devoutly tranquil region that appeals to all our senses.
The canton of Ticino delights visitors all year round. In spring, fall, and winter, it outshines the northern side of the Alps with its milder climate, attracting more and more travelers. In summer, it becomes the „Mediterranean coast of Switzerland“ and the gateway to Italy.
We are fascinated by the striking contrasts. There is something for every taste here: from secluded Alpine mountain peaks to the latest fashion trends on Lugano’s vibrant shopping streets, everything is on offer.
Reflection in the Monastery
Our journey begins at the foot of Monte San Salvatore, one of Lugano’s local mountains. The mountain, which rises majestically above Lake Lugano, is not only a symbol of the city but is also steeped in history. Since the Middle Ages, San Salvatore has been considered a place of spirituality and is named after the monastery of the same name, „San Salvatore,“ which was founded on its summit by Benedictine monks in the 12th century. The monastery was an important place of prayer and attracted pilgrims from the surrounding area.
Over the centuries, Monte San Salvatore developed into a spiritual center and a place of retreat for the faithful. Later, in the 19th century, Lugano became a popular destination for artists and intellectuals who were drawn to the beauty of the region. This led to the construction of a spectacular funicular railroad to the summit, which made Lugano even more attractive as a tourist destination.
Following in the footsteps of this history, we arrive at the Hotel Bigatt in Lugano Paradiso. The complex is perched on the hillside above Lugano, but without being overbearing. The convent was long run by Franciscan nuns and was known for its teachings on growing fruit and vegetables. This tradition has been wonderfully continued, and there is still a beautiful convent garden next to the hotel complex, which inspires and largely supplies the hotel’s own kitchen.
The old buildings have been converted into a minimalist and modern boutique hotel, which perfectly masters the balancing act between monastic silence and warm hospitality. The chapel, which is open to the public during the day, is free of pomp but rich in color. The view over the lake as far as Italy, a dreamy vegetable garden, a spacious pool, and light-flooded rooms invite you to relax and find yourself.
The cuisine at the Bigatt is remarkable. A small team transforms the produce from the monastery garden into modern interpretations of Ticino dishes. Our highlight, however, was the breakfast buffet – from sweet to savory, everything you could dream of was on offer here.
First the Tour…
We also need this nutritious breakfast because we set off from Paradiso on a mountain bike tour to Alpe Vicania. The route winds along enchanted trails on the peninsula between the outskirts of Lugano and Morcote. We feel like we’ve been transported back centuries in Torello, a district surrounding several churches and monasteries. We ride along an old Way of the Cross towards Alpe Vicania, and just before Carona, we are amazed by the botanical garden of San Grato. If the temperature still allows it, a dip in the fantastic outdoor pool in Carona is an absolute must.
The tour runs mostly through wooded areas and is neither technically nor physically demanding – and is therefore highly recommended.
…then Culture
From the remarkably well-signposted trails of the Lugano mountain bike region, we head down into the sophisticated city center. Lugano has the flair of Milan or Monaco – well-dressed people, trendy bars, beautiful cars, and an insane amount of culture. The density of museums, concerts, and festivals is enormous. The afternoon sun accompanies us to Lugano Arte e Cultura. The modern glass cube right on the lake is dedicated to the performing and visual arts as well as music. In addition to theater, dance, and music, the Museo d’arte della Svizzera italiana in particular is beautifully staged.
But a visit to a museum is not just about what you see. The atmosphere we experience, inspired by art, caught up in the light building that seems to float above the lake and yet blocks out the noise of the city, is wonderful and probably just as refreshing as the subsequent aperitif in the lively alleyways or one of the last gelatos with which we extend the summer.
From the city to the village
Just ten kilometers outside Lugano lies Morcote, a small, picturesque village on the shores of Lake Lugano that seems to have come straight out of a fairy tale. The narrow streets and pastel-colored houses with their wrought-iron balconies immediately transport us back in time. The romantic atmosphere of Morcote is enhanced by the numerous flowers and the botanical garden, as well as the view of the lake and the surrounding mountains.
One of Morcote’s main attractions is the church of Santa Maria del Sasso, which is perched on a raock high above the village and offers a breathtaking view of the lake. A visit to the church is an unforgettable experience, but one that leaves you out of breath as you climb the long stairs to the top. We descend again and discover a real gem on Lake Lugano – the Hotel Arbostora. Within historic walls, a charming host couple runs a small hotel with an exquisite restaurant. The dishes are prepared with a sophistication that is only surpassed by the exclusive wine selection. And this wouldn’t have captured our hearts long ago if it hadn’t been for the young hotelier couple’s son, not yet ten years old, discreetly but extremely eloquently greeting the guests and making sure that everything was to our satisfaction.
Everything has an end… but not quite yet
With so many wonderful moments, it’s always hard to go home again. We take a gradual detox and make another stop at the Kurhaus Cademario. Cademario is located on the north side of Lugano and, how could it be otherwise, high up at the entrance to the Malcantone high valley. Once again, we are amazed at how quickly we disappear from the urban hustle and bustle of Lugano. Malcantone is dominated by untouched forests, narrow stream valleys and small historic mountain villages. The clocks seem to tick a little slower here. The mild climate is ideal for hiking, cycling or even spa treatments all year round.
The Kurhaus Cademario is not just any spa hotel. It was built at the beginning of the 20th century during the initial phase of the spa or „wellness“ concept. From the very beginning, spiritual, cultural and health-related refreshment was a cornerstone of the emerging tourism in Ticino at that time. While the beginnings of the spa were characterized by dogmatic renunciation and physical asceticism, today Cademario offers four-star luxury and holistic pampering. The concept works: In the various treatments offered by the DOT SPA, emphasis is placed on helping guests regain their center and energy. This is also supported by selected cuisine, if the guest so wishes.
The moral dilemma between indulgence and renunciation is nothing new. Impressive black and white photographs from the early days of the Kurhaus show how the conflict between the cult of the body and hedonism was described with a twinkle in the eye even back then. This is also wonderfully demonstrated today when a distinguished waiter hands us the dessert menu and comments furtively: „Ehm, I can’t recommend the last three dishes to you, how shall I put it… well, these are diet dishes, and that’s how they taste.“ After the short but wonderfully beneficial stay at the spa, we set off on our journey home and are thrilled at how Lugano was able to completely transport us to another world in just a few days.
