Every Trip is Special, But Some You Never Forget

This was the case with a trip that we spent exclusively in Relais & Châteaux hotels. This hotel association has fascinated me for years, and we have already visited a few of these special hotels in the past. Relais & Châteaux has been around for almost 70 years, with around 580 hotels worldwide and counting. These are entrepreneurs and families around the world who are passionate about their craft and dedicated to building warm relationships with their guests.

Local roots, unparalleled cuisine, understated luxury, sustainability, and a family spirit – the art of hospitality, both in-house and for staff, is an essential part of this association’s philosophy. The aim is to make guests feel like they are in a second home, even when traveling. The hotels that we visit, and have already visited, have a soul for me, and you can tell that the passion for the hotel industry is at home here.

T he first stop on the „Route du Bonheur“ created especially for us begins in the picturesque Upper Bavarian village of Reit im Winkl. Relais & Châteaux already offers 143 itineraries of different lengths worldwide. All of them are well described and have been traveled many times. One well-known route leads from the North Sea to the Baltic Sea. Six nights are recommended for this journey, and you get to see a lot: small fishing harbors, one of the longest sandbanks in the world, seaside resorts, canals, and archipelagos.

But back to Reit im Winkl. This climatic health resort is famous for its winter sports, and when we arrive, there is even a little snow. It’s a cloudy day, and our children make the most of the journey by listening to their favorite audiobooks. My husband and I also enjoy the leisurely journey in our car. Gut Steinbach is perfectly signposted and is located just outside Reit im Winkl on a sunny plateau – a particularly beautiful location, in the middle of the mountains, but without the feeling of being cramped.

The estate consists of 50 rooms and suites in the main building and a further seven wellness chalets nestled around a clear swimming pond. The furnishings are high quality, and we immediately feel at home thanks to the warm wooden elements, plenty of space, beautiful fabrics, and a cozy atmosphere. This is also noticeable with our children, who immediately unpack their little suitcases full of joy. When the housekeeper brings the children’s bathrobes, we all know what’s coming next. The children want to go into the pool and have a swim. Nothing better than that, and we jump into our bathing suits and run after our boys. They are delighted with the beautiful 16-meter pool in which they can swim. The other guests are also infected by our children’s high spirits and compete with them in swimming.

I take a step back and explore the spacious 2,000m² wellness retreat on two floors. The pool is for all generations, and the spa is limited to adults, which I also appreciate. There are three saunas, and I opt for the outdoor sauna. I am alone and enjoy these precious 10 minutes all to myself. Afterwards, I explore the wellness library, find a quiet spot in one of the relaxation rooms, and enjoy the view of the mountains. On the way back, I discover the steam bath, a fitness area, and a yoga room. It’s a wonderful spa that impresses with its natural interior design. The spa almost feels like a walk through nature – a unique experience.

Speaking of experiences: we also had a few culinary ones during this trip. I share my food philosophy 100 percent with Achim Hack, the chef. If an animal is slaughtered, then please use it from „nose to tail“ and preferably not waste any food. He works with seasonal and regional food, and you can taste it. He is well known thanks to various awards, including the Michelin Green Star. The „living enclosure,“ as Achim Hack affectionately calls it, is also a highlight for our children. Ronald Kling works as a farmer at Gut Steinbach and looks after the chickens, deer, goats, and yaks. The animals are fed every day at 4 p.m., and our children are diligent helpers, wanting to know everything about the animals.

The days at Gut Steinbach are filled with culinary highlights, great conversations, children’s laughter, and new discoveries. It could go on like this for days, but our road trip continues. It is therefore with a heavy heart that we say goodbye to the lovely owner, Countess Susanne von Moltke, and we both know that we will meet again.

Onward Journey to Kitzbühel

The drive to our next hotel takes just over half an hour and takes us through a charming mountain landscape. Our destination is the Tennerhof in Kitzbühel. The five-star hotel impresses with its location. Situated above Kitzbühel on a sunny plateau, it offers a magnificent view – and not just of the Streif. For those unfamiliar, the Streif is a ski race course and has been the venue for the international Hahnenkamm Races since 1937. It is considered one of the most dangerous race tracks in the world.

The extensive Kitzbühel ski area stretches across two federal states and seven municipalities. Fifty-seven cable cars and lifts run high above the ski resort on around 200 ski days a year. You’ll find 185 km of groomed slopes and 41 km of ski routes on site. The Tennerhof, surrounded by a beautiful garden with mature trees, offers a playground that our boys love to visit.

The five-star Relais & Châteaux hotel has been run by the owner family Luigi von Pasquali since 1923. The history of the hotel, originally a farm, dates back to 1629. Ian Fleming, the inventor of James Bond, discovered his passion for writing here, and some of his first ideas for the world-famous books and films were born at the Tennerhof. Pure inspiration! I am also inspired and enjoy writing in this beautiful place.

We spend the afternoon at Schwarzsee, a great excursion not just for families, and in the Tennerhof spa area. In summer, there is a heated outdoor pool with a sunbathing lawn. But today, we enjoy the indoor pool with a wonderful view and a small, very warm jacuzzi. The Finnish saunas, the steam bath, a salt stone room with a healthy climate from the Himalayas, and a panoramic relaxation room invite “adults only” to relax and enjoy themselves.

After an eventful day, we are hungry in the evening and opt for the Römerhof-Stüberl. We had already booked a raclette evening here before we arrived. A complete success! The children also enjoy making their own raclette. I have a fish raclette with prawns, char, catfish, and monkfish. This is served with various dips, vegetables, baked potatoes, and bread. Beef fillet, roast beef, chicken, and pork are roasted on the other raclette. So there is something for everyone, and we enjoy a wonderful family dinner in a wonderfully cozy atmosphere with excellent service.

We all sleep particularly well that night and wake up refreshed the next morning. After we have finished our “game of hide and seek” around the hotel, we head for breakfast. Delicious regional and fresh dishes await us. The breakfast menu is definitely a highlight. It includes not only the classics but also the „Tennerhof“ granola with sheep’s yoghurt from Lake Wolfgang, lime, and banana. Or the „grilled sourdough bread with ham from the Thum manufactory in Vienna with horseradish“ – highly recommended.

In the evening, we are also deliciously spoiled in the hotel restaurant.

Sparkling Stopover

There is no shortage of culinary delights or adventure, as we visit Swarovski World in Wattens, Tyrol, during the day. An excursion that is worthwhile for all generations. There is plenty to marvel at, explore, climb, and romp about, and a wonderful carousel awaits visitors. For Swarovski World, multimedia artist André Heller has designed 14 underground Chambers of Wonder, all dedicated to the artistic interpretation of crystal. My husband and I have many fond memories of André Heller – we truly appreciate this artist.

There is certainly more to discover, but our road trip must continue. We say goodbye to Kitzbühel and look forward to the Seiser Alm in the Dolomites, which has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2009.

Gardena Grödnerhof Through the Ages

As we drive along the road, we catch sight of the Gardena Grödnerhof hotel on the right, bathed in sunlight and centrally located in the village. The history of the Gardena Grödnerhof dates back to 1923, and the hotel is celebrating its 100th anniversary this year! The story of its origins is impressive. The grandparents of the current owner, Hugo Bernardi, bought a private house and had it converted into a hotel. Constant extensions and renovations allowed the founders to establish one of the top addresses in Val Gardena/Gröden. The hotel was awarded four-star status as early as 1988.

Their son Hugo and his wife Cinzia took over the hotel in 2000, had the complex demolished, and dared to build a new one in spring 2001. The Grödnerhof was awarded the fifth star in 2003 and has been a member of Relais & Châteaux since fall 2004. The pioneering spirit is still alive at the Grödnerhof, and I learn from Alex Demetz that there will be no shortage of new innovations in the future.

While Alex Demetz, Director of Sales & Marketing, shows me around the hotel and shares exciting stories about his family and the hotel, the boys spend some time in the newly built children’s club. When we all sit together for dinner, our children talk enthusiastically about the kids’ club with shining eyes. They mention a cinema, a mini climbing hall, a video game area with F1 simulators, a creative corner, a doll’s house, and even a kitchen. There is also the option for the children to eat with the entertainer while their parents dine in the Michelin-starred restaurant.

However, our children preferred to dine with us, so we enjoyed a delicious meal together in the hotel restaurant. We have the privilege of dining in the renowned gourmet restaurant „Anna Stuben,“ which has been awarded one Michelin star and four Gault & Millau toques. Hopefully, we can repeat this culinary experience during our next stay. Of course, the restaurant also offers a special menu for children, which includes classics such as pasta dishes, Wienerschnitzel, and hamburgers.

The international flair of the restaurant is particularly noteworthy. For example, a family from Monaco sits next to us. During our stay, we hear a variety of different languages, which fascinates our children. They even try to pick up a few words in the different languages and repeat them.

There is also much to discover in this region. Skiing at the highest level – that’s for sure. At the heart of the UNESCO World Heritage Site lies the Sella Ronda, a legendary 24 km panoramic tour that takes you around the Sella massif in around 5-6 hours. The Sella Ronda connects four ski resorts and offers 500 km of fun on the slopes. We also decide to go on an excursion to Mont Sëuc and take the gondola up the mountain. The snow glistens, and the Seiser Alm is gloriously sunny on this day. The Seiser Alm, the largest high alpine pasture in Europe, is beautiful! The freshly fallen snow offers perfect conditions for a toboggan ride. Our children plunge down the slopes with enthusiasm. We parents also take the opportunity to sit on the sledges and enjoy the breathtaking view of the snow-covered mountains in the bright sunlight.

Upon our return to the hotel, we treat ourselves to some relaxing moments in the spa. Raffaella gives me a soothing facial treatment, and I am convinced that this warm-hearted Italian has golden hands. After a relaxing massage, my husband joins me again. Together, we splash and play with the children in the pool to make the most of the last few hours.

We all agree: this road trip was a complete success, and we will be back.