Photos: Justin Hession

Seemingly endless in all directions and a firmament in which you want to lose yourself: as a sparsely populated country characterized by vast deserts and savannahs, Namibia is the perfect destination for anyone with a thirst for freedom and a desire for adventure.

A lthough about 20 times the size of Switzerland, Namibia has less than half its population, only a quarter of it. This results in a population density of just 2.5 inhabitants per square kilometer (compared to Switzerland’s 240), leaving vast open spaces. These empty expanses are much more appealing and exciting than one might imagine. Instead of densely populated valleys and bustling cities, Namibia offers pristine landscapes and endless horizons. The few villages scattered throughout the country feature a surprising mix of architectural styles, a discovery that may catch many first-time visitors off guard.

Surprising influences at every turn

This eclectic mix of styles reflects Namibia’s rich and eventful history. Once a German colony, Namibia was placed under South African administration after World War I until it gained independence in 1990. The remnants of German colonial rule in what was known as „German South West Africa“ remain highly visible today. German is still commonly spoken, and German-style buildings dominate many towns, particularly in Swakopmund and Lüderitz on the coast. In these places, half-timbered houses stand alongside Victorian structures.

But it’s not just the architecture that reflects European influence. In parts of Namibia, fashion also carries traces of its colonial past. Some Herero women, primarily from central Namibia, continue to wear Victorian-style clothing that was introduced by German missionaries. This traditional attire is both visually striking and photogenic. The women’s long, high-necked dresses with puffed sleeves are paired with elaborate hats inspired by the horns of Nguni cattle, which hold significant cultural and economic importance for the Herero people. As the women age, the hats become smaller, marking their passage through life.

As layered and fascinating as Namibia’s history, architecture, and fashion are, for many visitors, these elements are secondary. The country’s diverse ethnic groups, including the Herero, are just one aspect of a much broader cultural tapestry. What truly draws people to Namibia is its extraordinary landscape and wildlife. As Seazen photographer Justin Hession aptly put it, „Anyone who travels to Namibia will return home with a photo album bursting at the seams and memories that last a lifetime.“

Contemplation and reflection in endless expanses

Many Europeans consider Namibia to be the safari destination par excellence, and its landscape, characterized largely by a stark barrenness, has its own unique charm. This stands in sharp contrast to the lush green slopes of Switzerland’s mountains. Here, distances of several hundred kilometers between villages are the norm rather than the exception. In between, there’s a lot of what seems like emptiness, which is just as appealing, impressive, and overwhelming in its uniqueness as the actual destinations.

In these surroundings, where roads on the horizon seem to stretch toward infinity and clouds chase their own shadows, it’s easy to pause and simply listen to the silence – and your own thoughts. There’s something meditative about driving along the isolated dust and gravel roads, but be careful not to miss the next turn-off to a national park while daydreaming. It’s surprisingly easy to lose track of time after hours spent driving through endless, deserted expanses.

A journey through Namibia truly embodies the idea that “the journey is the reward.” Most overland routes are unpaved tracks, occasionally lined with quiver trees or acacias bending under the weight of massive, intricate weaver bird nests. A nest can weigh up to 1,000 kilograms, so it’s no surprise that the trees bend beneath the load or that the nests sometimes spill over onto power lines. As fascinating as these structures are, the eye doesn’t linger on them for long, because from time to time, a solitary island mountain – like the Spitzkoppe, about 120 kilometers east of the capital – rises unexpectedly from the perceived emptiness. Elsewhere, deep gorges like the Fish River Canyon in the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park dominate the landscape.

When encounters with wildlife are added to this unique backdrop, the sense of wonder and joy becomes unparalleled. You don’t even need to go on a safari to experience Africa’s remarkable animals up close. With a bit of luck, you’ll spot weaverbirds and ostriches along the roads, as well as antelopes and the occasional zebra. However, the best chance to see the “Big Five” is, of course, in a national park. Fortunately, Namibia boasts a dozen national parks and numerous smaller protected areas, meaning you won’t have to worry about traffic jams or large crowds when elephants, lions, giraffes, or zebras make their appearance.

Extraterrestrial landscapes and animal encounters

Although Namibia may sometimes resemble a post-apocalyptic setting – and has been used as a filming location for movies like *Mad Max* and Stanley Kubrick’s *2001: A Space Odyssey* – it is often referred to as „Africa for beginners.“ This label stems largely from its well-developed infrastructure, which allows even inexperienced adventurers or families to explore the country on their own and go on safari. The state-run campsites are particularly impressive, often located far from civilization yet equipped with modern amenities. They offer the perfect blend of wilderness camping and comfort, providing a classic campfire experience without sacrificing too much convenience.

Etosha National Park, located in northern Namibia, is a prime example of this balance between adventure and ease. Its abundance of wildlife and excellent infrastructure make it the most visited destination in the country. However, those willing to tackle off-road conditions will find just as much joy in less frequented areas, and given Namibia’s incredible diversity and stark contrasts, it would be a shame to focus on only one region.

The salt pan of Etosha

In the north, vast savannahs dominate the landscape, gradually giving way to scrubland and forests. At the heart of this region lies a massive white salt pan, which inspired the name of the national park. „Etosha“ comes from the language of the Ovambo, Namibia’s largest ethnic group, and means „great white place.“ This dry salt lake covers several thousand square kilometers, taking up about a quarter of the park’s area, and is so vast it can be seen from space.

The animals, however, remain far less visible. Even large creatures like elephants are so well camouflaged that they seem to melt into the landscape, often only noticed when they’re directly in front of you. Despite the sparse vegetation, Etosha’s waterholes, some of which are lit at night, provide excellent opportunities to see a variety of wildlife up close. The experience can feel less like observing from a vehicle and more like being part of a nature documentary.

As if the wildlife encounters weren’t magical enough, visitors might also witness another surreal phenomenon: mirages. The wide, flat salt pans, combined with extreme heat, can distort distant objects, creating the illusion that they are floating or shimmering. Sometimes, these illusions mimic water surfaces or entirely non-existent objects, making it easy to lose track of reality amid this already otherworldly landscape.

The dunes of Sossusvlei

The dunes of Sossusvlei are by far the most popular destination in Namibia’s largest park, the Namib-Naukluft National Park, which spans nearly 50,000 square kilometers. Although the dunes are a good 300 kilometers off the nearest main road, the detour is unquestionably worth it. These towering sand mountains, the highest in the world, are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A local provider’s website even claims:

„The dunes, which once could have meant death, are now as friendly, magical, and inviting as the winding landscape of the Swiss Alps – only warmer.“

You may or may not agree with this comparison, but the sight of the dunes, some of which rise up to 300 meters with their sensuously curved ridges, is undeniably magical. Just as mesmerizing is the daily spectacle of the sand shifting from deep red to rich orange as the sun progresses across the sky. From the crest of the dunes, the views are unobstructed and vast, but if climbing feels too strenuous, you can opt for a hot air balloon ride to take in the breathtaking scenery from above – an experience high on my personal bucket list.

Between the towering dunes, the dry clay flats and skeletal dead trees may offer little in the way of shade, but they more than make up for it by providing striking visual contrast. Almost like professional photo models, these starkly beautiful landscapes invite endless opportunities for capturing stunning images.

The rocky landscape of the Fish River Canyon

The Fish River Canyon represents a completely different aspect of Namibia’s geographical and geological diversity. Impressive rock formations set the tone here – and instead of wildlife watching, the focus is on sporting activities: the Fish River Canyon Trail, established back in the 1960s, allows visitors with the necessary fitness level and permit to hike around 85 kilometers of the more than 160-kilometer-long canyon, which eats its way up to 500 meters deep into the rock.

The challenging route takes four to six days from the starting point in Hobas – nothing more than a campsite with a few extra rooms in a lodge – past impressive rock formations through the Fish River bed. It ends in Ai-Ais, which, for all its scenic beauty, exuded the charm of a communist town from the 1980s when I was there – admittedly quite a long time ago.

However, considering the hot springs, which are just right for revitalizing tired bones and spirits at the end of a long hike with their water temperatures of up to 60 degrees, the charm factor is probably secondary for most visitors.

A paradise for off-roaders

Whether in Etosha, the Namib Desert, the Kalahari, or the mountain ranges of Damaraland, Namibia’s vast expanses mean that covering long distances is often necessary to reach your next destination. Naturally, these distances require a vehicle. While there are long-distance buses available, they are not an option for tourists as they must stick to the main paved roads and only stop in a few larger towns or cities – not ideal for safaris.

Without your own car, you won’t get far – at least as a tourist. Locals, on the other hand, are often not motorized, especially outside urban centers, and either walk or rely on carpooling. „We go in your car, I don’t have one,“ reads a flyer from an enterprising San offering tours in the Kalahari. While vehicles are often scarce in regions like the Kalahari and other rural communities, rental cars for tourists come fully equipped with everything needed to survive comfortably in the bush. From an integrated sleeping area and outdoor shower to a gas stove – and, most importantly, good tires and tools for dealing with breakdowns – these vehicles are more than just transport; they’re a temporary home.

These accessories are far from overkill. The car becomes your basecamp, and campfire romance is guaranteed. Thanks to the elevated position of the roof tent, you not only get protection from wildlife but also an unobstructed view of the night sky – with the Milky Way seeming close enough to touch.

Of course, there are more luxurious options, although what constitutes „luxury“ can vary. For some, the romance of a campfire and an open-air bush shower is just as luxurious as a lodge with a private pool and a full range of services, from exclusive butler service to guided safaris on foot or horseback. In Namibia, you can have both. No matter which option you choose, you’re likely to be far from the crowds, free to indulge in your dreams…