City walks during Advent

Famous as Austria’s cultural hotspot, endearing because of its picturesque UNESCO Old Town, and worth seeing because of the lofty fortress that towers over the city, the city of Mozart is a year-round destination for everyone. During Advent in particular, it is transformed into an atmospheric fairytale world that delights me from year to year.

As I stroll through the festively decorated city, I regularly succumb to the magic of the Christmas markets – from the oldest at the cathedral to the highest at the castle and palace, to the Bauern Advent just outside the city. It is said that Salzburg’s fifth season is Advent, and it has already attracted international attention with its highlights, from the famous Advent carol singing to the romantic Advent and Christmas markets and special guided Christmas tours through the city of Mozart.

And how nice – this year, the Christmas markets will open without restrictions on November 17th. Let’s just hope that Mother Hulda is willing to contribute a few flakes of snow, because only then will the Christmas spirit be truly perfect. A good opportunity to explore the city with its cozy alleyways, festively decorated squares, and Christmas markets is the „Advent city walk,“ which takes you on a four-kilometer circular route to the most beautiful places in the city and lasts around two hours.

Of course, the first route leads to the Christmas market on Domplatz and Residenzplatz, as it is one of the oldest and most beautiful Advent markets in the world. Since 1974, the market has opened with a festive ceremony on the Thursday before the first Sunday in Advent and closes again on January 1st. From local customs to traditional decorations for the Christmas tree, gifts for young and old, all kinds of culinary delights in the form of Austrian specialties, mulled wine, and punch – this Christmas market has everything your heart desires.

Especially the traditional huts, the smell of punch and mulled wine, and the specially designed „starry sky“ as atmospheric lighting cast a spell over everyone. But the Christkindlmarkt not only serves as a magnificent backdrop for around 100 stalls; guests are also offered a special program ranging from Christmas readings for children, Krampus runs, Christmas tours, choir concerts, to a visit from the Christ Child.

From here, the route leads along Kapitelplatz square through St. Peter’s cemetery to the „Christmas Wonderland“ in the St. Peter Stiftskulinarium, one of the oldest restaurants in Europe, with a historical background dating back to the year 803. Away from the hustle and bustle of Salzburg’s old town and yet right in the middle of it all. From the 500 square meter arcade courtyard with its lovingly decorated Christmas trees, wooden reindeer, and stylish Advent wreaths, you enter the parlors with their individual Christmas decorations to match the furnishings.

And then there’s the culinary delight, which is served in the Stiftskulinarium with 2-toque quality and exquisite menus on the Christmas menu to impress every gourmet. Afterwards, you should definitely walk through the beautiful inner courtyard in St. Peter’s and continue into the Getreidegasse, the heart of Salzburg’s old town with exquisite fashion brands, restaurants, various hotels, and festively decorated passageways.

Here in the traditional „Sporer,“ a small traditional store since 1903 and best known for all kinds of high-proof spirits and good wine, there is the best orange punch to warm you up and, of course, much more. We walk along the Salzach and through Mirabell Gardens to the next Christmas market in front of Mirabell Palace. „Would you like a glass of wine?“ you hear as soon as you arrive, and you can tell that this is a cozy get-together of guests with an affinity for pleasure. The culinary delicacies, mulled wine, and browsing through the artistically decorated huts with their sometimes unusual offerings attract locals and visitors alike, and a lively conversation ensues straight away.

What’s more, this market is conveniently located opposite St. Andrä church, with a parking garage opposite and a bus stop in front. Before we walk to Hohensalzburg Fortress, we make a detour to the Ruperti Knights’ Advent market in Linzergasse. Advent „with heart“ is the motto here, with regional crafts, volunteers, and for a good cause – these are the ingredients for the small Advent market in the St. Sebastian guest house on Linzergasse.

It is one of my favorite alleys in Salzburg and is considered the main artery of Salzburg’s old town on the right: starting from the „Platzl“ at the Staatsbrücke, the promenade runs parallel to the Kapuzinerberg all the way to Schallmoos. And you should plan some time for this – shopping in the hidden boutiques, enjoying the restaurants, or staying in one of the historic hotels. From here, an impressive staircase leads up an old Way of the Cross to the Kapuzinerberg with an incomparable view of Salzburg’s adorned old town.

Our route then leads through the tranquil Steingasse over the Mozartsteg back to the old town on the left. If you want to get into the Christmas spirit, then do it properly, which is why you should also visit the Salzburg Christmas Museum, which, funnily enough, is open all year round. Under the motto: „Festivities between Advent and New Year from 1840-1940,“ the exhibition comprises eleven different themed areas with special collector’s items.

My special tip here is the Christmas market in the Sternbräu – an idyllic gem between Getreidegasse and Griesgasse with a living nativity scene, designer goods, and handicrafts. During Advent, the summer beer garden is transformed into a romantic village of huts with many stalls that smell of fresh wood and invite you to linger with all kinds of culinary delights. It must be said that it was only after the reopening in 2014 that the former traditional inn with beer garden became a „total work of art“ consisting of contemporary architecture and over 100-year-old building elements, Austrian cuisine with a twist, the new Salzburg „Sternbier,“ and many more attractions.

Afterwards, we finally make our way along the romantically illuminated Oskar Kokoschka Trail to Hohensalzburg Fortress. It is the largest completely preserved castle in Central Europe and also Salzburg’s landmark. The 360-degree panoramic view of the city and its surroundings alone is worth the climb, as are the many museums – from the Fortress Museum with exhibits from prince-archbishop’s court life, the Marionette Museum, and the Rainer Regimental Museum.

The Prince’s Rooms, consisting of the Prince’s Hall, the Golden Room, and the Golden Hall, are original from the 16th century. During Advent, the gray walls are transformed into a delightful Christmas market with local arts and crafts, creative gift ideas, and Salzburg delicacies. Even the way up could not be more romantic, as more than a hundred traditional Herrnhut stars bathe the Festungsgasse in a sea of lights, and once at the top, you can enjoy mulled wine and fresh tarte flambée from the historic Pfisterei, baked according to modern recipes in a centuries-old wood-fired oven.

If there was one more highlight of Advent in Salzburg, it would surely be the Advent magic at Hellbrunn Palace in the south of the city of Mozart. Even if you have to stand in a long queue to get in, it’s definitely worth it. This atmospheric Christmas market has been offering a special ambience for 20 years: with over 700 coniferous trees decorated with 10,000 red baubles and fairy lights, which bathe the entire area in a particularly Christmassy glow. In addition, the castle façade, whose 24 windows are transformed into an oversized Advent calendar.

Food and drink are provided in the numerous small huts, and the Hellbrunn trick fountains have also been open to the public since 2016. Bathed in atmospheric light, you can stroll past the baroque grottoes to the Sternweiher pond. The Hellbrunn Advent Magic has created a special “Children’s Christmas World” for children. This ranges from a petting zoo, Christmas train, and sausage barbecue by the campfire to a Christmas post office where the little ones can hand in their wish lists.

New this year is the fairytale scavenger hunt with 10 different fairytale stations hidden throughout the area and a fairytale passport in which the children then enter the fairytales they have found. There are then fabulous prizes to be won. There is also a festive supporting program for adults, which delights me every year: in addition to the Alpine specialties and traditional arts and crafts in the wooden stalls, where you can get original Christmas gifts, you will also be accompanied musically by choir singing, Salzburg folk music, and carol singers.

And if there really is a wintry snow flurry, you can find a warm spot in the cozy Advent café in the former orangery. For 50 years now, the St. Leonhard Advent market with its rustic huts at the foot of the Untersberg mountain has been offering traditional handicrafts in their most original form. Here you can find tasteful gifts, candles and wax products, wood carvings (especially nativity figures), Christmas decorations made of glass and straw, or ceramic items and cookbooks from the various regions of Austria.

All brought together and produced by numerous school and women’s communities as well as disabled people, and all for a good cause. The net proceeds from the Advent market will go to Lebenshilfe für Menschen mit Behinderungen. Last but not least, I would like to introduce you to the Bauernadvent in Glanegg. It is a real insider tip among all the Christmas markets and is located at the foot of the Untersberg in the middle of the historic Mayr-Melnhof estate.

For 25 years, everything here has revolved around game, wood, handicrafts, and pure Christmas spirit. In addition, rustic delicacies and a fitting ambience – all this characterizes the Glanegg Farmer’s Advent. Anyone who has never tried venison sausages, wild boar, and venison sausages can do so here, and those with a sweet tooth will be delighted by the homemade jams and fresh farmer’s doughnuts and Christmas cookies made by farmers from the region. This Advent market also has a small, fine supporting program to offer: with brass bands, horse-drawn carriage rides, and for those who are not afraid – Krampus & St. Nicholas.