Culture & enjoyment by the river and with wine
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Our trip to the border triangle began with the first highlight: the city of Basel. Not only is it renowned for its extraordinary density of museums, but it also offers a unique combination of culture and lifestyle – a true Mecca for gourmets and art-loving visitors.
Equally appealing was our continuation to Alsace, where we visited the world’s largest automobile museum, an absolute hotspot not only for classic car enthusiasts. In Freiburg, located not on the Rhine but nestled among the vineyards of Baden, we concluded our trip by indulging in the cultural treasure of wine. We also made a brief stop at the German Clock Museum in the Black Forest, which is celebrating its 170th anniversary this year.
Basel
With around 40 museums, the Swiss city on the Rhine is a stronghold of art and culture, featuring world-famous museums and a young, dynamic art scene. It is a cosmopolitan city that has something to offer for all ages – especially for art lovers and architecture fans.
A stroll through the city reveals a wide array of contemporary architectural history: futuristic buildings by Herzog & de Meuron, Mario Botta, and Renzo Piano, alongside modern architecture from renowned architects such as Frank O. Gehry, Zaha Hadid, and Tadao Ando. In contrast, the historic half-timbered houses from the 15th century in the well-preserved old town create a striking blend of old and modern that is evident everywhere.
In between, street cafés and „buvettes“ (small bars by the river) invite you to linger, as do beer gardens where local beer is brewed. The real crowd-pullers, however, are the nearly 40 museums, some of which enjoy worldwide acclaim, such as the Fondation Beyeler, the Museum Tinguely, the nearby Vitra Design Museum on the German side in Weil am Rhein, and of course, the Kunstmuseum Basel.
Between museums, swimming in the Rhine and a grand hotel atmosphere
Founded in 1661, it is one of the oldest museums in the world and houses works of art from classical modernism, featuring pieces from Pablo Picasso to Henri Matisse and Joan Miró to Paul Klee. The museum is currently thriving with a unique special exhibition of paintings by Pablo Picasso (1881–1973) and the Crete-born old master Doménikos Theotokópoulos, better known as El Greco (1541–1614), in a dialogue of 40 masterpieces by the two artists.
Another must-see is the Fondation Beyeler, located just outside Basel in a beautiful park. On the occasion of its 150th anniversary, the current exhibition is dedicated entirely to the Dutch painter Piet Mondrian. In addition to his early Dutch landscape paintings from the late 19th century, his famous Symbolist and Cubist works are also on display. It was not until the 1920s that the artist concentrated on a completely non-objective pictorial language with a rectangular arrangement of black lines on white surfaces and the three primary colors – blue, red, and yellow – which are well known.
The Tinguely Museum offers a special feast for the eyes as soon as you enter the spacious sculpture park and the modern brick building situated in the middle of it. The exhibition showcases all the works of the artist Jean Tinguely, which are unique due to their abstract design and interpretation. In addition to these idiosyncratic sculptures, the collection also includes drawings, exhibition posters, catalogs, and photographs.
If you look out of the window of the museum, you won’t believe your eyes, as the people of Basel throw themselves into the waters of the Rhine from a small beach and let themselves drift to the city center. Swimming in the Rhine is apparently one of the most popular leisure activities here, and thanks to the „Wickelfisch,“ an airtight bag, your clothes stay dry. No matter where you get out of the water, there are showers everywhere along the banks of the Rhine, as well as bars for a sunset aperitif. The best place for this is the terrace of the brasserie in the „Les Trois Rois“ hotel, one of the oldest city hotels in Europe, built in 1844 as one of the first grand hotels. And it literally still is today.
Anyone staying here will become a contemporary witness to centuries of architectural variations between Art Nouveau and Renaissance, peppered with elegant interiors, enchanting flower arrangements from the hotel’s own Fleurs boutique, and much-lauded Michelin-starred cuisine in the „Cheval Blanc“ with 3-star chef Peter Knogl. Crowned heads such as Napoleon, Queen Elisabeth II, and Empress Michiko of Japan have stayed in the 101 rooms and suites, and Pablo Picasso has also been a guest. Following its renovation in 2004 and reopening in 2006, the „Drei Könige“ is now one of the best hotels Basel has to offer for guests who appreciate the exceptionally pleasant service of a grand hotel.
Yes, it would be hard to swap this hotel for our fourth visit to the museum. It’s just too nice to stay here or to watch the small ferry traffic between the banks of the Rhine from Grossbasel to Kleinbasel. There, the „Volkshaus“ has established itself as a hotel with a fine brasserie and bar that is the exact opposite of the „Drei Könige“: instead of opulence, it offers contemporary minimalism in a boutique style with high-quality furnishings.
The ambience of the 45 rooms, designed by the renowned architects Herzog & de Meuron, is characterized by architectural generosity and a careful treatment of the historical building fabric. The contemporary art concept already catches the eye in the lobby and is unique, at least in Basel. It is not far from here to the banks of the Rhine or to the „Kaserne,“ with its rooftop bar and inner courtyard, where many live events are currently taking place.
Incidentally, anyone staying in a Basel hotel receives the BaselCard free of charge. With the major exhibition „Sculpture. Rethinking the World,“ the Vitra Design Museum in Weil am Rhein lures us across the border into Germany. It’s a 20-minute streetcar ride away, and the landmark can be seen from afar as a large stainless steel tower with a slide for young and old. The current exhibition focuses on the history, present, and future of plastic – from the rapid rise of plastics in the 20th century to their devastating consequences for the environment and possible solutions for a more sustainable use of this controversial material.
In addition to trendy objects from the pop era, there are also numerous current designs and projects for the home on display. The stylish buildings themselves have a very special effect, radiating a particular elegance in all white. It’s a shame, really, because with all the cultural highlights, the culinary delights were somewhat neglected. However, this much should be mentioned: due to its high density of good eateries, Basel was named the Swiss City of Delight 2022, and you should definitely explore this on a Basel food tour across the city and several eateries. We don’t leave the city without trying the Basler Läckerli – a gingerbread-like pastry.
A special kind of voyage of discovery
Les Trois Rois Grand Hotel, Basel
Alsace
In Mulhouse – just a stone’s throw from Basel – lies the „Cité de l’Automobile,“ classic car museum. Here, the famous Schlumpf brothers have created the world’s largest automobile museum, showcasing the most beautiful and finest vehicles, such as the Bugatti Royale, Rolls Royces, and Ferraris! These cars have all made history, which can be explored through animations, videos, and simulators, and they can also be purchased in the boutique.
As soon as you enter the 17,000 m² factory hall, a former weaving mill, you get goosebumps: cars on the ceiling and classic models on the picture wall with their corresponding heroes from the motoring world – a complete universe of chrome, leather, and striking features. The wow effect starts in the first hall, featuring classic cars through to modern vehicles – a story told by 243 cult models.
Then, you move from the hall of racing cars to the „dream cars,“ showcasing extraordinary models that will make your heart race – and you don’t have to be a car enthusiast to appreciate them. In this dark hall, polished chrome sparkles in a very special way, and if you’re lucky, you might find your very first car here – the VW Golf (built in 1970).
But the real stars of this arena are the legendary and rare Bugattis, including the Bugatti Veyron with its breathtaking speed record. You really have to tear yourself away here, as you’ll always find your favorite car that you’d like to take home.
However, we still want to enjoy the Alsace Wine Route for a while and follow it to Colmar. As the oldest wine route in France, it crosses around 70 villages where more than 1,000 winegrowers produce their Grand Cru wines: Riesling, Muscat, Pinot Gris, and Gewürztraminer. Our favorite is the Crémant d’Alsace because of its fine bubbles and fresh taste.
In Colmar, we would have liked to visit the „Choco-Story“ chocolate museum, but we only had time for a quick visit to the „Little Venice“ district in the old town, which offers the best photo opportunities.
Sun terraces between the Black Forest and the Rhine
Baden Wine Route Kaiserstuhl-Tuniberg Route
Fribourg
The fact that we have landed here in the sunniest south of Germany is evidenced by the temperatures exceeding 30 degrees upon our arrival. However, there is a light breeze, and our hotel, the Park Hotel Post near the old town, is within walking distance of the Augustiner Museum. The former monastery has been transformed into a real architectural gem, housing an impressive collection of art and cultural history from the Middle Ages to the Baroque period, as well as 19th-century paintings.
The Baroque altars, sculptures, and paintings on display are shown to their best advantage in the former monastery church. Currently, the exhibition „Freiburg and Colonialism“ is running here, illustrating how people in this region benefited from European colonialism—primarily from the African states, especially Namibia. It’s not a pretty story, and the tragic end is well known.
In contrast, a stroll along the Freiburg brooks through the picturesque alleyways of „Little Venice“ between Martinstor and Schwabentor, with its historic buildings and quaintly decorated house facades, is positively harmonious. We stroll through the medieval Schwabentor, taste a „Rote“ (special sausage) on Münsterplatz, are enchanted by the stained glass windows in Freiburg Minster, and end up in the „Alte Wache,“ which today serves as the house of Baden wines.
How fitting, as there is a wine festival in the city where you can taste your favorites. The listed building on Münsterplatz is one of the few relics of the 18th century that remained virtually unscathed by the bombs of the Second World War. At that time, the Austrian guard organization was stationed here; today, it showcases the fascinating variety of regional wines. After all, as the third-largest wine region with 15,000 hectares of vineyards, Baden has much to be proud of—including its grape varieties such as Chasselas, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Gris, Muscat, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir as red wines.
In the „Alte Wache,“ there is not only a tasting room but also a cozy spot on the terrace in the midst of the hustle and bustle around Münsterplatz. Those drawn to the coolness of the Black Forest afterwards have the opportunity to visit the German Clock Museum in Furtwangen. The 8,000 objects and 1,000 exhibits—from the Black Forest wooden clock to the fascinating planetarium clock from the 18th century—will make watch connoisseurs’ hearts beat faster. The museum is celebrating its 170th anniversary this year, making it one of the oldest technical collections in the world—a must-see for all clock lovers.
