Guernsey – along with the associated islands of Alderney, Herm, and Sark – is a Crown Estate and therefore not part of the United Kingdom. The so-called Bailiwick of Guernsey, which refers to its administrative status, is directly subordinate to the British Crown. Although the island has its own parliament, the British government is responsible for defense, international relations, customs, and immigration.

With an area of just over 60 square kilometers, Guernsey is a small but diverse island, offering a wide range of activities and sights. Whether it’s a cliff walk in Renoir’s footsteps, a refreshing dip in the La Vallette sea pools, shopping in the capital St. Peter Port, a tour of Victor Hugo’s former residence, a visit to the German underground hospital from World War II, or a swim at one of the 26 beaches, Guernsey has something for everyone.

And then there is the island’s incomparably lush landscape, often bathed in mystical light, which alone makes a visit to this Gulf Stream island worthwhile.

Once around the island, please…

Guernsey is a paradise for anyone who enjoys walking. The Coastal Path winds along the entire coast for around 60 kilometers and can be completed in four daily stages, depending on the hiker’s leisure time and fitness level. Densely wooded hills alternate with flower meadows and rugged cliffs, offering breathtaking views of the crystal-clear waters of the English Channel, romantic bays, and bizarrely shaped cliffs.

We particularly enjoyed the section from the Bella Luce Hotel in St. Martin to St. Peter Port. It’s only a few steps from the hotel to the coastal path, where we hiked through enchanted forests that suddenly opened up to reveal magnificent views of the cliffs, the sea, and small islands in the distance. Shortly before reaching Moulin Huet Bay, one of the most famous beaches on Guernsey, we followed in Renoir’s footsteps. Picture frames at five different locations along the way offer the same views Renoir had when creating some of his works – though the vegetation may have changed over time.

From the main route, smaller paths lead down to the sea and beautiful bays. Be sure to stop for a snack at the Beach Café at Fermain. This charming beach bistro, located directly on the sandy shore, offers delights like fresh crab rolls. After some refreshments and perhaps a dip in the cool waves, we continued along the path, going uphill and downhill past remnants of fortresses and cannons from the German occupation during World War II. Narrow paths high above the sea eventually led us down to our destination, St. Peter Port.

Port city with charm

The small capital, with around 18,000 inhabitants, nestles in the west on „the heights“, a hill with the best (and most expensive) residential areas, while in the east, St. Peter Port opens up to the harbor with the imposing Castle Cornet. The cobbled streets of the old town exude a cozy atmosphere, blending English and French charm. Countless small and unique stores, cafés, and bars line the streets, and you’ll be pleased to find that there are no global chains here – neither Benetton, nor McDonald’s, nor Zara. Instead, specialty stores such as The Guernsey Shop, „the best place in the Channel Islands to buy the traditional Guernsey Jumper“, as a local confirmed to us.

The sweater, first knitted for fishermen in the 16th century, was designed to protect the men in storms, cold, and wet weather. The Guernsey Jumper has survived and still prides itself on being the most durable garment a man can buy. Made only from Guernsey wool from Guernsey sheep and made in Guernsey, it goes without saying.

And when hunger strikes, a Guernsey Gâche (pronounced Gosh) is just the thing. The yeast pastry, enriched with dried fruit, is eaten with plenty of Guernsey butter – another thing Guernseyans are very proud of.

The next surprise comes at the Town Church. Victor Hugo, the great French writer, is sitting on a wooden bench. When he rebelled against Napoleon’s coup d’état in 1851, he was exiled and finally landed in Guernsey in 1855, where he spent the next 15 years. The statue shows him next to a giant octopus, alluding to his novel Les Travailleurs de la mer, which he wrote on Guernsey and dedicated to its inhabitants. His residence, Hauteville House, richly decorated by himself, is now a museum and worth a visit just for the fantastic view of the harbor.

Speaking of the harbor, the tidal range (the difference between high and low tide) on Guernsey can be up to an incredible twelve meters. This becomes very apparent when planning a trip to Lihou, the smallest partially inhabited island. The pedestrian causeway – which takes around 20 minutes to cross – is only accessible at certain times. The „timetable“ is based on the tide and is published on the internet every month down to the minute.

The water level also plays a role in the sea pools at La Vallette. At high tide, the pools are flooded and transformed into a spectacular swimming area. The artificial walls prevent all the water from receding at low tide, so you can enjoy a dip even at low tide. The names of the four pools bear witness to their original purpose: the Ladies’ Pool, the Gentlemen’s Pool, the Children’s Pool, and the Horseshoe Pool, a U-shaped pool with direct access to the bay. Today, of course, all the pools are open to everyone.

If the weather doesn’t quite cooperate, a visit to the La Vallette Underground Military Museum is well worthwhile. The exhibition focuses on the military history of Guernsey during the First World War and the history of the German occupation from 1940 to 1945. The exhibition rooms are located in a tunnel complex that was built by the German occupation as a diesel storage facility for their submarines.

The Seigneur of Sark

The fourth-largest Channel Island is absolutely unique and should be on your must-see list. Just 40 kilometers from the French coast, it’s „ruled“ by a feudal lord – the Seigneur – while being owned by the English crown. The Seigneur, a feudal lord who still pays a symbolic annual rent, oversees the island. Christopher Beaumont, the 23rd and current Seigneur, resides in an estate befitting his rank. Since 1730, Seigneurs or Dames of Sark have lived in this stately house, surrounded by a garden that is undoubtedly the jewel in the crown. Open to the public, this vast garden is filled with enchanting paths, a labyrinth, ponds, and countless rose bushes, making it one of the most important gardens on the Channel Islands.

Sark’s social system is as unusual as its transport options. On the entire island, there are only three modes of transport: tractors, horse-drawn carriages, and bicycles, referred to locally as „pushangs“ in Guernésiais. Paved roads? Not here. Natural roads dominate the landscape, along with the many tractors used for everything from ambulances to refuse collection or even the local bus.

Exploring this small island is best done by bike, and the center is where you’ll find a charming assortment of small shops and bistros. Don’t miss the post office, with its golden letterbox honoring Carl Hester, the Olympic dressage rider who grew up on Sark and won gold for the United Kingdom in 2012.

And if your stomach growls?

The French influence is most evident in the food. Moules, croque monsieur, quiche lorraine, or foie gras can be found on the menus, and many of the charming restaurants have adopted French names: Le Nautique, La Fregate, Le Petit Bistro. We had an excellent meal in the latter and truly felt like we were somewhere in the south of France. The ambience, the waiters, and the dishes served could not have been better even in Provence. However, nothing works without a reservation – the bistro was full to capacity during our visit.

Those who prefer traditional English cuisine will also get their money’s worth. The fish ’n’ chips at Cobo Bay, for example, will convince even the most skeptical. And if you want to try your hand at preparing your own fish, we recommend the restaurant at Saints Bay Hotel, where the chef is happy to organize a dinner in the nearby garden, allowing guests to also try their hand at filleting fish.

Further information

Vögele Reisen offers an adventure trip to the Channel Islands, while Imbach Reisen provides a hiking trip. Both trips include visits to Guernsey, a day trip to Sark, and Jersey is also on the itinerary for both programs.