Wine & Gourmet Festival
Baden-Baden
Germany’s most elegant spa town is gearing up for the top event of the year, which will be held from May 19 to 21 for wine and culinary enthusiasts. In addition to top-class and internationally renowned chefs, around 177 winegrowers will present their quality wines, and other gourmet partners will contribute their products. Various restaurants, hotels, and trendy locations – all organized by „Falstaff“ and Baden-Baden Events – will host tastings, exciting lectures, and, of course, live music at its finest, making it a true celebration.
Elsa-Maria Honecker has already taken a look for Seazen
Bienvenue in the „summer capital of Europe.“
What Paris was to winter, Baden-Baden was to summer. That’s how the fine spa guests who came here for a summer retreat felt 200 years ago. When I visited in March, spring had just arrived with all its components. The city was green and blooming like a work of garden art, framed by an incredibly beautiful Belle Époque ensemble of villas that suggested an exclusive lifestyle.
At Leopoldsplatz, smartly dressed people of all ages sat in the already warm spring sunshine, and every passer-by was closely scrutinized. A little laissez-faire, coupled with „showing what you’ve got.“
The famous casino in Baden-Baden – © Kur & Tourismus GmbH
Baden-Baden still has a reputation as an elegant spa town today, often referred to as the „world spa in the Black Forest,“ with its two thermal baths: Caracalla Therme and the Roman-Irish Friedrichsbad. These baths boast the most mineral-rich and hottest springs in Baden-Württemberg. The Caracalla Therme, with its 4,000 square meters, is so inviting from the outside that even if you don’t have much time, you’ll be tempted to jump into the hot and cold water grottos, current channels, and various whirlpools, and then relax in the new wellness lounge.
In contrast, the historic Friedrichsbad is an „ugly duckling,“ but with 145 years of tradition, it offers 17 different stations with changing temperatures. I was unable to verify whether the aristocratic elite also bathed here without wearing textiles, but you can still rent one of the private baths today. Incidentally, there are also Roman bath ruins, which can be visited with a guide.
Afterwards, it’s worth taking a short breather in the „Kaffeesack. Die Brewer,“ which offers homemade coffee specialties from its own roastery, or in the rustic „Weinstube im Baldreit,“ where typical Baden cuisine is served alongside French fare.
In a prime location – the Caracalla Therme – © Kur & Tourismus GmbH
The fact that the moneyed aristocracy held court here 200 years ago is still evident, especially in the luxury hotels, the Kurhaus with its casino, and the thermal baths, which were already popular with the Romans. In 2021, Baden-Baden was added to the UNESCO list of „Great Spa Towns of Europe,“ alongside 10 other cities such as Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic and Vichy in France.
Savoir Vivre with art & culture
© Hotel Maison Messmer GmbH
If, like me, you stay at the 5-star superior Hotel Maison Messmer, where Emperor Wilhelm I once stayed, the city’s superlatives are practically served up on a platter. First and foremost is the world-famous Kurhaus, an architectural masterpiece where the „who’s who“ of the local bourgeoisie gather for glamorous balls, concerts, and congresses. It is also home to the most beautiful casino in the world, decked out like in the days of the opulent French royal palaces. If you plan to check in here, you should at least have a little black dress in your suitcase.
The „Hectors“ restaurant is the place to be, not only for the fine cuisine but also for the parade of the „rich and beautiful,“ who showcase their latest fashionable creations as they pass by. One thing is for sure, I will remember this magnificent casino forever.
The Trinkhalle next door is similarly opulent, with murals and Corinthian columns, and offers a great view of the spring-blooming spa gardens. Rumpelmayer confectionery in the colonnades also offers a sweet variation of roulette balls as a Baden-Baden specialty – perfect as a souvenir or gift.
What would Baden-Baden be without its world-famous promenade, the „Lichtentaler Allee“? It is one of the must-sees, just like the Frieder Burda Museum, which is nestled in a colorful bed of crocuses, tulips, and daffodils. The 3.5 km long stylish art and culture mile, also known as the „green salon,“ stretches along the River Oos to the almost 800-year-old Cistercian abbey, Kloster Lichtenthal – a wonderfully relaxing walk, especially in the warm spring sunshine.
In 2004, New York star architect Richard Meier designed a modern, light-flooded building in the middle of this promenade, which today houses the Frieder Burda Collection with around 1,000 modern works, current exhibitions, and a concept store filled with art objects. Currently running is the exhibition Transformers, featuring modern works and artificial creatures that can talk and dance – particularly interesting for young visitors.
The most beautiful promenade in Baden-Baden – the Lichtentaler Allee © Kur & Tourismus GmbH, C. Cancellieri
Just opposite is one of the most beautiful grand hotels in Germany for 150 years, the Brenner Park Hotel & Spa, with its wonderfully landscaped garden, terraces, and the new Fritz & Felix restaurant, featuring a stylish bar, bright conservatory, opulent Oleander Bar, and festively decorated fireplace hall as the heart of the hotel, where I was invited to „Afternoon Tea inspired by Pierre Hermé Paris.“
Deliciously fragrant teas, macarons, canapés, scones made to a British recipe, and traditional finger sandwiches were served. A delight for all the senses, as the experience is topped off by the very special scent wafting through the rooms.
And while we’re on the subject of the city’s culinary delights, there’s another highlight right in the middle of it all – Le Jardin de France in the Stahlbad on Augustplatz. For 25 years, Stéphan Bernhard has been cooking the best French and international dishes at star level with unagitated service in an enchanting winter garden.
Museum Frieder Burda © Kur & Tourismus GmbH, Clipdealer
Events and festivals throughout the year
There is no need to emphasize that the city of Baden-Baden has a particular affinity for culture, but the fact that there are also various pop concerts and events for young audiences is a nod to the changing age structure. The Easter and Whitsun Festivals in the Festspielhaus, the international horse races, the Philharmonic Palace Concerts, and the annual classic car meeting are all well-known events. Now, a new addition has joined the lineup as a gourmet hotspot: the wine and gourmet festival at the Kongresshaus, Casino, Kurhaus, and museums – organized by the culinary lifestyle magazine Falstaff.
In addition to top European winegrowers, local wineries, such as Johannes Kopp’s, are also presenting their wines. As a young winemaker in the Baden vineyards, he has dedicated himself to biodynamic viticulture and also breeds Scottish Highland cattle to fertilize the vines and for dry-aged beef dishes in his new restaurant. „I’m looking forward to the festival because we winemakers can make Rebland wine even better known,“ he says, showing me his repertoire, from Burgundy and Chardonnay to Sauvignon Blanc and, most recently, Syrah. Incidentally, he has taken inspiration from the Australians for the purist, modern style of his wine cellar and restaurant, with views of the vineyards and excellent cuisine.
Malte Kuhn from „Maltes hidden kitchen“ also offers a tasteful invitation to a culinary journey through Australia with a star menu and a selection of wines from Australia’s 60 wine regions. His restaurant in the old town offers coffee and grandma’s cake during the day, followed by a culinary feast of purist, honest, and seasonal cuisine in the evening.
The highlight of this weekend of indulgence will certainly be the evening with 3-star chef Massimo Bottura in the Malersaal of the Hommage Hotel Maison Messmer.
Further information about the festival at:
