Bali – The island of the gods & influencers

…is how Noël Coward described Bali during his stay on the island in 1932. By Charlie, he means Charlie Chaplin, his friend and traveling companion. After his European tour, Chaplin did not want to return to Hollywood. Instead, plagued by a midlife crisis, he fled to Bali with his brother Sydney.

Fascinated by the cheerful way of life of its inhabitants, Chaplin found a new zest for life and inspiration in their dances, which he also filmed. Bali helped him overcome his fear of sound, allowing him to begin a new phase of filmmaking that would lead to Modern Times – the first movie in which he does more than just speak, he sings!

Fortunately for all of us, Bali’s artistic aspirations remain as strong as they were in the 1930s. Decades later, it is still a magnet for creatives from all over the world. Bali, especially the area around Ubud, has always been a timeless center of art. Life, religion, and art come together in Bali. They have no word in their language for „artist“ or „art“ – everyone is an artist.

Inspired by the neighboring Indonesian islands, Balinese creativity has traditionally drawn on religion (Hinduism), the people, and the island itself as its muse.

In honor of the gods and to appease the demons

All artistic activities, such as dancing, painting, or making music, make the gods happy. That is why all Balinese are artists in a sense. To please the gods, they make beautiful baskets of palm leaves and flowers every day to present to the gods in the temples.

As there are many gods on the island, there is no shortage of ceremonies to pay homage to them. It is very common to see processions in which women form a long line, carrying pyramid-shaped offerings on their heads. They may be celebrating the full moon, black moon, or the inauguration anniversary of a temple.

While the Balinese pay homage to the gods, they must also take care to satisfy the demons. To maintain balance and avoid offending them, every day after placing the baskets of offerings on the raised shrines in honor of the gods, they place other offerings on the ground meant for the demons. It is said that the demons often stay at crossroads and cause many accidents there. Fortunately, however, they can only move in a straight line and cannot turn corners. If we distract them, we can prevent them from reaching certain places.

Bali controversy – island of the gods or island of influencers

Back in the 70s, hippies discovered the beautiful, spiritual island, where there were not only palm trees and beaches, but also cheap drugs. Then came the surfers, and today there are digital nomads, influencers, and hordes of tourists who are less interested in art and culture. Instead, they are drawn to Bali for the cheap accommodation and parties in the beach clubs.

Things have certainly improved since the pandemic, but you can still see half-naked people on the street or in restaurants, which is a huge provocation and insult to the traditional and religious locals. However, if you choose your towns and accommodation carefully, you can still experience Bali in the authentic and inspiring way that Charlie Chaplin once did.

COMO Uma Ubud is one of these places. The hotel celebrates Balinese culture in all its forms. It is an inland retreat dedicated to the understated Uma philosophy of quiet comfort in culturally rich places. The Uma Houses (Uma: Sanskrit for „house“) strive to turn tourists into travelers by immersing them in, participating in, and discovering the local culture and adventure. For example, every month full moon celebrations known locally as „Purnama“ are observed, and staff and guests can participate in them.

Experience the spiritual soul of Bali in Como Uma Ubud

Every morning, you can take part in the morning walking tour, a great opportunity not only to explore the surroundings of Ubud but also to gain an initial insight into Balinese agriculture. The tour is led by a local guide who is eager to share stories about his daily life and has a deep knowledge of local food cultivation. It’s particularly fascinating to learn about the rice fields, as rice is considered a staple food in Indonesia.

Although many rice fields have been replaced by vacation villas, rice is still cultivated on nearly a quarter of the island. The Balinese have been growing rice for over 1,000 years. According to legend, Sri, the goddess of happiness and abundance, gifted Vishnu, one of Hinduism’s main gods, a basket of unhusked rice. Vishnu and Sri decided to cook and share the rice. As it cooked, the rice began to burst open and multiply endlessly. Amazed by the miracle, Vishnu and Sri decided to divide the rice and distribute it to the people, ensuring that everyone could benefit from the blessings of infinite rice.

This legend symbolizes the abundance and bounty bestowed by the goddess Sri and her husband, Vishnu. It’s a reminder to share blessings and do good for others. Since then, Sri has been regarded as the goddess of rice, and many small temples in the fields are dedicated to her. In 2012, UNESCO added Bali’s rice fields to its World Heritage List.

Several beautiful rice terraces, such as Tegallalang and Tjampuhan Ridge Walk, are located near COMO Uma Ubud, and both excursions can be booked directly through the hotel. COMO Uma Ubud sources food from local farmers and small suppliers across Bali, not only because they offer the freshest produce, but also because these businesses are committed to sustainable economic development in their communities. They buy cashew nuts and roselle from a social enterprise that promotes sustainable livelihoods for villages in East Bali by reinvesting proceeds into income-generating activities.

In line with high-quality standards, the restaurant at COMO Uma Ubud, Kemiri, serves a wonderful breakfast buffet and offers delicious Indonesian dishes for dinner.

Architecture and design

The planning is very clever, and the interior design exudes freshness along with the signature fine fragrance typical of COMO hotels. The private courtyards and infinity pool give the property a modern feel. The centerpiece of the resort is a jade green pool, surrounded by rooms and dining areas, all nestled within the cozy property.

There are 46 rooms, suites, and villas in total, fringed with palms and banyan trees, many offering views over the Tjampuhan Valley. Each of the charming, light-filled villas features an open-air courtyard between the living areas, as well as stylish bathrooms equipped with every imaginable amenity and modern comfort. You can sleep in a four-poster bed and drift off in the finest Egyptian cotton sheets.

Como Shambala Estate – Designed for Harmony

Bali is said to be inhabited by spirits that can infest a house and bring misfortune to its inhabitants – unless the house is built according to ancient construction rules that keep them out. To prevent negative energy from entering a house, every factor must be considered, from the size, position, layout, and orientation of the buildings, to the presence of shrines, offerings, and artwork, as well as the characteristic walls and gates that surround them.

Woven bowls made of coconut leaves, called canang sari, are filled with fresh flower petals and often placed next to a small Hindu shrine. If the demon is not appeased by the offering and continues to enter the area, it must climb a small staircase and pass through the Angkul-Angkul, a gate. When this gate is open, the spirit encounters a final obstacle: an aling-aling, a half-wall that stands a few meters away from the gate. Bali’s demons can only move in straight lines, so the aling-aling is impenetrable. These barriers, often decorated with elaborately carved Hindu deities and motifs, can also be found in Balinese guesthouses, hotels, restaurants, and temples. Most tourists walk around them without realizing their cosmic role.

This is exactly how the COMO Shambhala Estate hotel was built. Cheong Yew Kuan – an architect with a profound respect for the environment and indigenous building styles – collaborated with interior designer Koichiro Ikebuchi to create the hotel. Their vision integrates local stone, wood, and traditional alang-alang roofs into sophisticated spaces that are both modern and deeply traditional. COMO Shambhala Estate is a wellness retreat nestled in a spiritual enclave of jungle, river, and sun-drenched glades north of Ubud. Celebrities, politicians, and wellness enthusiasts indulge in the spa-like atmosphere of the resort, with programs focused on cleansing, exercise, and Ayurvedic principles.

Peace and tranquility reign here, with the only sounds being the chirping of birds and the omnipresent buzzing of tropical insects. There’s nothing nearby, and that’s a good thing – but if you crave some action, Ubud town center is just 10 km away. Upon arrival, guests who have booked a wellness program receive a consultation with questions about diet, sleep, and caffeine consumption, followed by treatments and activities tailored to their lifestyle and goals.

The beauty of the property immediately captivated me, and I knew I was in good hands here. After meeting my personal assistant, included with the wellness program, I hopped into a golf buggy and was driven to my residence. The hospitality of the staff was exceptional, from the lobby team to the gardeners who preserve the rainforest’s beauty, to the restaurant staff who knew your name before you even sat down, and finally to my personal assistant, who was always there at the right time – especially when I got lost in the forest in the evening!

The elegant dark wood rooms are housed in cozy residences, each with a private pool, a communal lounge area, and a fireplace where a fire is lit every evening by the residence’s personal assistant. Day beds invite you to relax, as do open-air baths. Healthy, non-alcoholic minibars and a large selection of teas continue the wellness theme. There are only 30 rooms and villas across five residences, each named after different elements. I was fortunate to stay in a terrace suite in the Wanakasa Residence, which means „forest in the mist.“ The suites are spacious, with large floor-to-ceiling windows offering breathtaking views of the rainforest, making me feel as though I was sleeping right in the middle of the forest.

My personal highlight of the resort is Kedara, a hidden water garden with three crystal-clear pools, operated without chemicals. Each pool is lined with smooth river stones, and a rippling waterfall flows from an ancient sacred spring called The Source. Although the spring is located on the property, the water belongs to the Balinese people. Special paths to the collection point have been kept clear for Hindu villagers to fetch water for sacred occasions or to perform blessings of the spring. Upon request, the resort also organizes a purification ceremony for guests – an experience I would not want to miss.

There are two restaurants on the property: Kudus House and Glow. The Kudus is actually a former Javanese home that was dismantled in Java and rebuilt on the Shambhala Estate. The ambiance is beautiful, and all the food at the Estate is organic, seasonal, fresh from local fields, and absolutely delicious.

Black, white or golden: which sandy beach would you prefer?

Whether in the north or the south, it is always very hot on Bali’s beaches. But they are very varied. On the small island, you will find all kinds of sand and the roughest to the calmest waters. In the far south, in Uluwatu and on the Nusa Dua peninsula, the beaches are white; in the far north, in Lovina, the beach is almost completely black. They are all fantastically beautiful, although not all of them are suitable for swimming.

It is surprising: although the Balinese live on an island, they have always been wary of the sea. Until the development of tourism, they stayed away from it. Their ancestors told the story of a small neighboring island called Nusa Penida, where the demon Ratu Gede Mecaling lived. He was angry because he had been expelled from his Balinese village of Batuan and therefore regularly came to Bali to spread plagues. As he came over the coast, people avoided staying there. In addition, the enemies, the invaders, always came by sea. For all these reasons, they never settled on the coasts, especially not on the rough ones like Kuta. The Balinese only go to the beach to admire the sunset.

You don’t have to miss out on culture here either – the Tanah Lot temple is only 20 minutes away by car, and a visit is definitely not to be missed. The sea temple is one of the most photographed sights in Bali due to its location. It was built on a large rock directly in the sea. Its name means „land in the middle of the sea,“ and it is said to offer its visitors protection from evil demons living in the sea. It can only be visited on foot at low tide. Below the temple entrance, there is a cave in which a freshwater spring emerges, although Tanah Lot is surrounded by salt water. The water is considered holy spring water. The spring is guarded by priests day and night to protect it.

There is also another cave, the Ular Suci, which is home to poisonous krait snakes. These are also monitored by the priests and put on display for tourists. Although the kraits are among the most poisonous snakes in the world, you are allowed to touch them, as they have supposedly never bitten anyone. When asked what would happen if they did bite, the priest said that in this case, you would probably have very bad karma.

Tanah Lot is best visited during sunset. The tour is organized daily by the hotel. From Como Uma Canggu, you can reach Ubud or Uluwatu in 90 minutes – the hotel is ideally located as a starting point for exploring the island. Party lovers will appreciate the proximity to Bali’s hippest beach clubs such as Finns, La Brisa, or Potato Head.

Even though I love Bali, I don’t want to claim that the island is flawless. There are the inevitable queues, Instagrammers at many viewpoints all looking for the iconic shot, the traffic is chaotic and crazy, many towns are westernized, and you don’t have to look far to find travelers behaving inappropriately. However, if you get your priorities right and choose the right accommodation, you can escape the crowds, immerse yourself in the rich culture of this island, and experience the unique friendliness of its people.

This trip can be booked at www.trauminselreisen.de can be booked.